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Mark
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Joined: 01 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 5:30 am    Post subject: How to thin Bondo?? Reply with quote

Had to resort to Bondo to pour TB's tonite.

Its been 2 years since I used the goop, and I forgot what a hassle it can be.

I have a gallon, so don't want to waste it, anyone know what to use to thin it??

Please help, thanks,

Mark
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jackson
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 2:31 pm    Post subject: acetone Reply with quote

when we made surfboards as kids we used acetone to thin resin. bondo is the same substance, i believe. just try a little, i bet it will harden ok.
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Mark
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll give it a try.


Worked great. whew! thanks again Jeff.

12 double size ETB's ready to serve.

They are already showing me where they want to do it too. Must be important towers for someone according to the fly-by as i was cleaning up.

Oh well.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering why you wold want to thin the resin? Does it really increase the volumetric yield sufficiently? Because what I've read about thinning resin, with respect to boating applications, is that it makes the resin more brittle and water absorbent. With respect to taxidermy applications, the corrosiveness of the thinning agent can cause problems to the embedded material. I don't know if any of this relates to orgonite production, but it's something to consider at least.
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Mark
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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, I will have to let you know, I am going to coat them with lacquer spray, and camo paint and will never see them again, so i will have to run some tests with dummies to see about the brittle and porousity thing.

One thing is for sure, it makes bondo workable for me, without the thinner, the stuff is a nightmare.


update:

some of the ones I thinned did not have enough hardener and did not cure properly. Fixed em up quick. The others i thinned came out fine.
They are also lighter weight. All feel good.
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jackson
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the acetone completely evaporates in the cure process. it's extremely volitile. no worries with the resin. it remains the same density. we used it to set skegs. i use it now to thin resin if i need it.
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moreart
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi folks. I'm a little confused.
Around here in my neck of the woods, the word bondo is used as a generic term for any brand of putty body filler used in auto body work.
The company that goes by the brand name of Bondo makes three similar products:
1. The putty body filler
2. A liquid fiberglass resin (standard type used for making orgonite)
3. A jelly-like fiberglass resin that is somewhere in between the other two in consistency.
All three are polyester resins and require a catylist.
Which one are you working with, Mark?

( back in the day, when the Fridgidaire company was the first to make and market the refrigerator, their brand name became a generic term for the appliance. A similar thing has occured with Bondo. Hence, my confusion.)
Thanks.
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gentle
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark, may I ask what type of resin you normally use?

~Peter
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Mark
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Normally use the silmar 41 clear cast from us composites. They have cheaper poly suitable for field devices, but the clear cast serves double use for me with my other crafts.

the bondo I am using is the body filler that i've used for car repairs before. grey, with a red hardener.

the bondo liquid fiberglass resin is too expensive. Never heard of the jelly stuff.

overall, the acetone makes a gallon of bondo go lots farther and if i strike a better balance with the next pour, i might use it again because i rarely have the cash to lay out for a 5 gallon shipment of poly from anywhere.

gift well.
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drew
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2005 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the body filler type of bondo is good for orgonite?

In the past month, I've experienced a second bout of "bad resin" since first starting pouring a year ago. The first problem occured early on in my learning experience so it really through me for a loop since it happened while I was still learning and unsure. There was 3 gallons of it, purchased at half-price discount, so there was enough for me to eventually figure out how to deal with - required a LOT more hardener, and I eventually took a liking to the funky blue color the resin had, both wet and hard.

Most recently, I've had several batches that cured to a sponge-like hardness with funky shade of green specs to it; literally, squeeze the cured TB and/or cone HHG, it flexes, just like a moist sponge, except, the TB/HHG was/is no longer moist. Over the period of several pours, I pretty much eliminated the variables down to bad resin or bad hardener. Once I finished that particular can of resin, the problem has gone away.

So far in a little over a year, I've only ever used Bondo polyester, even with the two bad experiences now it's still quite simple to work with, and I usually find it at one or two local Home Depot locations. A year ago when I started, their price was around $23 per gallon, it's now up to $32 per gallon. This may be a local thing, but the Wally Worlds around here only sell the bondo polyester by the quart - at $9 a pop, so this is even way worse, but they also sell the body filler type in gallon containers, forget what the price is. Collectively these may be reason to try out either one of the Epoxys or the Bass Pro reference made in Bird's "which resin" thread; browsing the latter's site, I noticed their can is the now all familar same kind of paint can found in the original picture of Don's Tutorial on building the classic Croft Cloudbuster.

Any of you long time pourers over come across a batch of bad resin that lead to a sponge-like creation? For now, I'm using the results a couple at a time to put into the weekly garbage pickup. Some of them I've recast and was able to get a hardened outer shell to form, but I suspect part of the guts are still spongey; is this still useful orgonite?
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2005 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, well I use the Bondo All Purpose Fiberglass Resin. I've never had a problem working with it (except for the one time I forgot to mix in hardener before pouring a tray of TB's). It costs me $25/gal. If there is a cheaper kind at Walmart, I'll consider giving it a go. At any rate, I get perfect TB's every time. They way I make them doesn't lend to any mess at all. So the only reason I would consider using thinner, would be if I could get something like 60+ TB's instead of my current limit of about 48 (per gallon).
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Mark
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2005 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made another batch of TBs with the Bondo body filler.

Thinning it with acetone seems to evaporate something in the resin. It seems to decrease the mass, or at least the density of the resin. Sure makes it easier to mix with shavings and pour. Hardens fine, and the less dense TB's are lighter weight.
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Irishjpf
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Joined: 31 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2005 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark,

How does the Bondo body filler compare in price to their liquid fiberglass resin. I've been getting the liquid at Lowe's for $26/gal (can pour 67-68 TBs with a gallon, using brake filings). I just found the same liquid resin at Sutherland's ( I believe it's a local chain only ? ) for $22, so will go there from now on.
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Mark
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The times I've seen any type of Bondo that had the word fiberglass on the packaging was in rectangle quart containers at h-depot and Ace. They were $10 per quart. The body filler is $20 per gallon.

Add $5 for acetone to thin the body filler.

I might try this "liquid" style out if I can find it at the lowes near me. How does it pour? what are the set and dry times?
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Irishjpf
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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2005 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark,

The Bondo FIberglass Resin pours quite easily. The gallon can comes with 2 separate 22ml squeeze bottles of the MEKP hardener. Each botle has 22 and 11 ml marks on the side, so when I pour 32 oz of resin, I can squirt in 11 ml of hardener without having to do any extra measuring.

I mix the hardener for about 30 seconds, then spend about 3 minutes stirring in 30-32oz of brake filings. This still pours reasonably well. I can still spoon the resin in or out of each mold at least 10 minutes after adding the catalyst, and I'd guess total working time would be have to be at least 15+.

My first few pours were into molds with curly metal from a drill press. I wasn't too happy with the metal density, but plain catalyzed-resin ( with no brake metal ) poured just like pancake syrup, and seeped down through the curly stuff very quickly.

Hope this helps.
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